Quote:
Originally Posted by Outbakbowhunter
Woody,
You said above that
"The single bevel causes a significant reduction in volume of the edge, "
I am not sure that I agree with that. What is the bevel angle you are talking about.
Is not the bevel angle adjustable by manufacturer to be as low or high an angle as desired.
Why cant a single bevel be made at a higher angle for better edge retention strength.
I dont agree with Ed Ashby on his lower edge bevel angles, ( from memory about 15 degress) but personally I like an edge angle of 30 degrees or higher.
Ed's opinions are mainly geared for uber broadheads on very big game, but some of his ideas are good (with a little tweaking) for guys shooting 125 grain models.
I dont really think single or double bevel makes that big a difference on deer sized game, if both styles are razor sharp and both are routinely giving pass throughs, the game is no more or no less dead.
I like them, because they are easier to sharpen, and I believe they also have a slight edge in accuracy ( I think they also spin more in flight ) as in tighter groups.
I hope to save up and get a Hooter Shooter before the end of the year, which will either prove or disprove it.
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On comparing the volume of mass in both a single and double bevel I use the average of what is available on the market. In other words what is out there for us to get our hands on. I can lower the angle and have but the problem is to increase the volume of material to equal that of a double, it would be so low that it will not slice well and creates a surface that will push tissue.
There is a significant difference in edge quality between a stainless and carbon steel at the same hardness, especially in regards to retention. I don't see any influence on accuracy between the different bevels at all. I've also tried to film the theoretical spinning of the single bevel through an animal carcass with high speed video and don't see it acting any different than a double. They will both take direction from bone and the single will sometimes rotate counter to the direction it is supposed to from that.
If a blade is made from good steel and made correctly, 20 degrees isn't bad at all on a double bevel. Cut that in half length wise and you have a 20 degree single with a significant reduction in volume and edge retention. I prefer to be in the area of 22-25 degrees when I resharpen a blade depending on the steel. 30 is still good but passing 30 and you are getting in the area of creating a surfact that will push tissue.