Quote:
Originally Posted by WoodySanford
On comparing the volume of mass in both a single and double bevel I use the average of what is available on the market. In other words what is out there for us to get our hands on. I can lower the angle and have but the problem is to increase the volume of material to equal that of a double, it would be so low that it will not slice well and creates a surface that will push tissue.
There is a significant difference in edge quality between a stainless and carbon steel at the same hardness, especially in regards to retention. I don't see any influence on accuracy between the different bevels at all. I've also tried to film the theoretical spinning of the single bevel through an animal carcass with high speed video and don't see it acting any different than a double. They will both take direction from bone and the single will sometimes rotate counter to the direction it is supposed to from that.
If a blade is made from good steel and made correctly, 20 degrees isn't bad at all on a double bevel. Cut that in half length wise and you have a 20 degree single with a significant reduction in volume and edge retention. I prefer to be in the area of 22-25 degrees when I resharpen a blade depending on the steel. 30 is still good but passing 30 and you are getting in the area of creating a surfact that will push tissue.
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Woody,
I beg to differ, a double bevel broadhead with 20 degree bevel angles on each side of the blade, has a combined angle of 40 degress. ( 20 X 2 = 40 ) and we all consider that a good angle for sharp.
A single bevel angle is what it is. What ever the broadhead maker sets it to be.
I believe that single bevel edges are plenty strong enough, as long as they are made at no less an angle than 30 degrees angle of bevel.
Which is still significantly sharper than your example of the 20 degree double bevel. (20 X 2 = 40 degrees )
I also disagree about the twisting cutting motion that single bevel edges give.
If they dont twist, as you say, how is it that all the photo's of s shaped entry wound pictures, of single bevel heads, are shown on bowhunting forums, when ever the single bevel broadhead style is discussed.
Either you are mistaken on that point, there is another explanation for them, or there are one hell of a lot of photo shopped photos circulating out their with a pro single bevel broadhead agenda.
I mentioned in an earlier post, that I dont think a single bevel makes all that much difference on deer sized game, double bevel heads are still working just as good as they always did, so dont misunderstand me, I am not advocating single bevels to the exclusion of all others.
I personally like them because I find them very easy to sharpen, and I do think they have a very small edge in accuracy ( tighter groups ) especially as the range get out to 50 yards or more.
I have had quite a few guys say this to me, its not just my single idea, but when I can afford one I would really like to buy a hooter shooter to ascertain whether or not its just my misguided opinion or a prove-able fact.
It is true that most commercial single bevel style heads in the US, are made with very low angles, which can work if the blades thickness is enough to allow higher tempered hardness values for edge retention.
I think this works on the 200 + grain heads if you are going on a safari in Africa, but in the 125 grain weight class broadhead for average day to day hunting, a 30 degree bevel angle on 1055 spring steel blades, about 50 Rockwell hardness is about right.
Ultimately, the commercial success of any particular broadhead style, over the long term, depends on whether it works.
If a thing is a lemon you will only get one purchase per customer, they return for more only if they are happy with its performance.
Whether or not they are your "cup of tea" I do think single bevels are here to stay.......