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| Fixed Blade Broadheads From two blades to four blades, all is fixed in here. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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85gr
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: new york
Posts: 51
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im new in archery and at first i thought i wanted a bigger cut and so i bought mechanical broadheads. but now that ive been reading and watching videos and such i now want a fixed blade broadhead. My problem is i have no idea which one to shoot but all i know is i want it to fly as much like my field points as possible. So if you have any suggestions please let me know. thanks
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#3 (permalink) |
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85gr
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Central MN
Posts: 63
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Asking the best broadhead around here is like asking the best type of car at a NASCAR race. Everyone will give you their favorite and some will even offer information to back up their opinion.
There are a lot of good fixed blade broadheads out there. I personally shoot NAP thunderhead 100s as my head of choice. The best thing you can do is pick out something that has been around for a few years. Some examples would be the NAP Thunderhead, Slick Trick, and Muzzy. Be prepared with any fixed blade head to need to do a little tuning (something you should be doing anyway) to get field point accuracy. From a tuning forgiveness standpoint, the best "fixed" blade head would be the Atom from Arrowdynamic Solutions which I have also used with great success. Best of luck and good hunting! |
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#5 (permalink) |
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75gr
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27
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There are many great fixed blade heads available. You can look through all of the posts on here and find some great reviews. That being said, my opinion is that the Slick Trick Standard is the best all round head available. I think it has the best balance of flight characteristics, surface cut (a full 2 inches with the four blades), durability (all steel ferrule and Lutz Mercedes blades), and penetration. Check out all of the reviews out there...you will not find one better reviewed "en masse" than that head.
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#6 (permalink) |
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85gr
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: northport,NY
Posts: 55
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I have used muzzy's in the past and with paper tuning the bow had them hitting same as field points. I'm just getting back into bowhunting and after reading all about broadheads, i'm going to go with muzzy again--"Don't fix it if it ain't broke" I shot two turkeys with muzzy's, one at 45yrds and 1 at 60 yds flew like darts
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#7 (permalink) | |
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100gr
![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Murrells Inlet, SC
Posts: 206
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Quote:
really not so. I see you already figured that out. Second, there are a lot of good BH's out there & it's mostly about being patient & shot placement. I've shot all kinds of heads, including mechanical's & have found a trusty 2blade to be my favorite. But, it sure is fun to see the result's of any BH. If you want any BH to fly like field point's....it really come's down to tuning your bow & finding your correct/needed spine. Start researching, as much as you can, on how to tune your bow. Once you learn that you can get 90% of BH's to fly like field points. If your BH isn't hitting like FP's, hit us up & we'll be helpful enough to get things in order, to get it there. There's some very knowledgeable member's on here that are bottomless w/knowledge & most important, experience. I'm also curious as to what you run with & how it does for you. PM me & I'd be glad to share a tuning guide from Nuts&Bolts to your email. That man is great!
__________________
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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75gr
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 25
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It depends on what type of bow you're shooting.
A compound bow can shoot any fixed blade 2 or 4 blade broadhead because most compound bows are between 60-70 pounds and generate speeds between 300-325 fps, but if shooting a recurve or longbow where the poundage is between 40-60 pounds and speed is between 165-200 fps, then a cut on contact 2 blade broadhead is the best. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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100gr
![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NOR*CAL
Posts: 235
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I like the 150g 2 blade broadheads, Silver Flames, Stingers and I am going to get some Werewolfs when they come out.
__________________
Elite Answer 70#, Spot-Hogg Hunter, G5 Expert II, Harvest Time HT-1's, Tight Spot |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Trial Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9
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I'm relatively new to bowhunting as well, and have only killed one deer so far with my bow (and I killed that one with NAP Razorback-5's, which arent on the market anymore), but so far I've had good luck with accuracy from the thunderhead. THis year im hoping to shoot muzzy's though :P |
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#14 (permalink) |
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85gr
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Spokane Wa
Posts: 70
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I'm with Wyet on this one. I like a good stout 2 blade, because elk are my favorite quarry, and penatration is crucial. A tough sharp 2 blade has the best chance of splitting and penatating bone. Silver Flames may be the best made but they come at a high price.
__________________
His bow remains steady, and his arms are made strong by the power of the mighty God of Jacob. |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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130gr
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 514
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Quote:
I, like your Dad have been shooting Rocky Mountain Premier's since they came out about 18 years ago and believe they and the TH are the greatest heads ever. However more game has probably been shot with the Bear Razorhead. You see it really doesn't matter as long as you hit the animal in the vitals and it goes down. The heads are not designed to catch the deer but the guy buying the head. Like fishing. I know everyone on this website is into the latest and greatest, but if you poke a hole in the heart of any anminal with a field point it will die. Hit it right and anything will seem like the best head ever designed. Hit it bad and the best head out there will fail. Keep it simple and keep it sharp (once again KISS). I do not see any reason why anyone needs a $10 arrow and a $15 head to kill a deer. Maybe I am getting old and cheap but there are thousands of older heads out there that have already proven themselves including all of you guys going to Africa when the old guys already shot this stuff using these old proven designs, more than 50 years ago. The older designs have been selling for 40 or more years and all of you are thinking the only answer is the brand new never really tested design that costs 10X more. Waste your money if you want, but the only way to stop this run away cost increase of heads is to stop buying them. There are more than 50 new heads that come out each year and most are no better than any head offered in the past. And none of them will kill any better. Who cares if the animal dies in 9 or 11 seconds as long as it dies. As a collector I love all of the new stuff, but most of them are all gone in a year or two while the Zwickey's, Bodkins and Ace's keep selling. |
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