Swamp hunter

My broadheads have been hitting right with my field tips but the other day they started to hit low. One day they were hitting fine and a week later they were hitting low. I started over with field tips just to make sure. After shooting the field tips, the broadheads are still shooting low. Any ideas what is causing this?

yotekilla

Make sure everything is tight, sight, rest, peeps not moving. None of your vanes are contacting anything. Do your broadheads spin true?? Sometimes if you have one that doesnt group with the rest of them you can heat up the insert and turn it a bit, then re spin test it. Iv also had to turn the nock to a different cock vane. Make sure you are not dropping your bow arm at the shot, have someone watch you shoot it helps.

RamMan

Did you replace the loop? if you shoot a drop away your cord might have stretched and the timing could be off. I have had very similar experiences in the past not sure if it was a bad BH or what also are you shooting a helical fletch? should shoot a helical or off set

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Mark Land

Yep as RamMan stated, check your rest make sure nothing has changed with it and also check your string loop/nock pt, may have some string stretch which can change nock location. I have seen some drop aways with cords that as little as 1/8in difference in cord length could have the rest not coming up fully!

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TexBowHunter99

Could be string stretch. Try and put a 1/4 turn on the bottom limb and see if it corrects the issue. If it improves, keep adjusting till your even again. You can remove a 1/4 turn from the top if your limbs are bottomed out.

Swamp hunter

The string had stretched, the whisker biscut rest was worn, and the loop had moved.

Timberwolf

I have had issues with them hitting all over. I tuned my bow up and have very tight groups with field points. I have heard bow speed can affect flight. I know I had an older bow and shot muzzy 4 blades and when I went to a new bow I had huge issuses with tunning the broad head. I shot the Mx4 and traded them to my dad for his 3 blades and they shot better. Where can I get a good lesson on how to fine tune the broad head so they shoot like my field points? I hunt out west and can't use mechs so I love muzzy, but getting frustrated. Need some help. Thanks

j870sm

I am shooting the MX4's out of an SR71 and an Omen. They are hitting with my FP's out of both bows. Both bows are shooting well over 300fps. I also shoot ST mags and CE XT4's out of the SR71, have not tried these out of the Omen yet. I really like the MX4's and since they are cheaper than the Tricks I am going to stick with them.

I am not a bow tuner by any stretch but I have been successful at getting things to work out. I printed off the Easton Tuning guide and I used it. It is a good source of instruction, IMO.

Mark Land

Inadequate fletching stabilization seems to be the biggest problem with many people getting fixed blade broadheads to group and fly well as arrow speeds have increased. Most people are shooting smaller length fletching now and those vanes require a strong helical to stabilize a broadhead well. Bohning finally realized this and came out with the helical Blazer jig and it puts an impressive amount of helical to the fletch and really does shoot very well. I use a Bitz for fletching vanes and have it set to put the max amount of helical and still keep the base of the vane down on the shaft.
Bareshaft tuning with drop away rests has been my most preferred way to tune, paper shooting only gets you close, bareshaft will fine tune even more.
Attached is the article I wrote on broadhead tuning, hopefully that will help you.

How To Tune For Broadheads

Broadhead tuning requires a bow that is properly tuned in order to achieve accurate and consistent arrow flight. Shooting form, proper center shot and proper nocking point must be achieved before any broadhead shooting takes place. Helical fletching is vital for consistent and accurate fixed blade broadhead flight. We highly recommend shooting helical fletching with any broadhead. You want to spin the arrow in flight to stabilize the arrow/head, similar to rifling in a gun barrel. Fletching clearance with the bow and rest is vital as well and often overlooked by many shooters in the tuning process. Fletching contact (even with feathers) can present as incorrect center shot or nock point adjustment and cause mass confusion during the tuning process. Incorrect arrow spine can also show center shot problems for finger shooters and nocking point or rest height problems for release shooters. Finger shooters put a horizontal torque on arrows and release shooters exert a vertical torque upon arrow release. Drop away rests can be very beneficial to eliminating or reducing these problems, but proper rest adjustments, spring tension and nock/fletch orientation can significantly reduce these as well.

Broadheads must be perfectly straight and aligned on the arrow. Broadheads should be assembled on the arrow, tightened and spun to check for straightness. Occasionally, inserts or outserts need to be turned in order for the broadhead to spin properly. 2-part epoxy is good for this purpose as its slow cure time allows the archer to check the arrow/head as the epoxy begins to harden. Broadheads should be turned on the arrow as the epoxy thickens until the arrow/head spins true. Then stand the arrow up straight for the glue to cure. Hot melt adhesive is also useful (especially for aluminum arrows), but working time is very short and occasionally must be reheated to achieve a true spin. All of these problems must be addressed prior to an archer tuning broadheads. If all of these problems are corrected, broadhead tuning can be a snap. Typically compound bows are tuned to shoot a bullet hole through paper and recurves/longbows are best tuned to shoot a bare shaft perfectly straight. Bareshaft tuning will work very well with compounds and give you the best fine tune if the shooter has good form and is using a drop away style rest. Normally these methods are done at 6 feet for paper tuning and 10 yards for bareshaft tuning. Generally, perfect broadhead flight can be achieved through these methods. If good broadhead flight is found, then arrows are shot at 20, 30, 40 yards, etc. and checked for broadhead grouping. When broadheads group well, then consistent arrow flight is achieved. Occasionally, some minor rest and nocking point adjustments may be necessary to achieve good grouping. Broadhead groups that deviate high and low can benefit from minor nock or elevation adjustments. Conversely, groups that show a horizontal deviation can benefit from minor center shot adjustments. In both situations, adjustments should be made minutely in 1/16in. increments or less, in either direction, until groups close and become more consistent. One important point to remember, adding a broadhead to the end of the arrow is like adding small fletchings, any angle that the arrow leaves the bow is generally the direction the arrow will want to follow until the fletching is able to control and direct the flight of the arrow. If everything is in a straight line, straight and consistent arrow flight is easier to achieve.

Many bowhunters still believe that consistent grouping of field points and broadheads into the same sight point is possible and expected, this sometimes happens, but with today’s faster and harder shooting equipment, this can be difficult. I, personally have had only a few bows that would group field points and broadheads together and all of those were slower energy cam type bows generally shooting under 260 f.p.s. and all of my recurves and longbows. However, with the advent of drop away rests, this has become much easier and more expected and normally these high performance bows will group both points right on or very close.

If a bowhunter wishes to attempt this, adjustments can be made to rest height and center shot to move the groups closer together. Broadheads react to the direction in which they are launched much more than target tipped arrows. If broadheads group in a different spot than the target points, adjust the rest in very small amounts in the direction the target points are hitting at. In other words, move the broadhead group to the target point group. If your broadhead hit to the left of the field points, move the rest to the right, if the broadheads are low, move the rest up. Just remember to make small adjustments when moving and pay attention to broadhead grouping and stop when they start to deteriorate. In that situation, just adjust for the best broadhead group and readjust your sights.

Broadhead tuning can be an arduous affair or can be very simple. A lot of time and patience is necessary to achieve this task, but as bowhunters, we owe this to the animals we hunt and our reputations as hunters and sportsmen to ensure that the most efficient and humane harvest is achieved and one that provides us with adequate sign to trail the animal and a short and humane harvest.

Best wishes and good luck in your tuning!

Yours in responsible bowhunting,

Mark Land
Muzzy Technical Support Specialist

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Timberwolf

Thanks for the help. I have paper tuned but not tried bare shaft.

Mark Land

Bareshaft with helical fletching will have you shooting and grouping well, maybe not in same spot as field pts. but they will shoot and group, you can then just fine tune the rest by group shooting to bring your field pts and broadhead together or at least a little closer, but not all setups and shooters will be able to always shoot broadheads and field pts in the same spot, some will, some won't just too many variables in setups and shooting form!

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