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| Homegrown Broadheads For the Native American in all of us. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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85gr
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Fayetteville, GA
Posts: 84
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I really like the Silver Flames. I thought I would try something a little different. These are SF clones, I guess, of the 150gr only much thinner (only 0.040" thick). I wanted a way to shave a little weight and still be deer effective.
[IMG] [/IMG]Note to anyone that wants to try cutting inner venting cutouts..anneal the steel then re-harden and temper (if you are just making round holes...just drill away with a hard drill bit and no need to anneal.) The first one took many hours (cutting and filing hardened steel). The next two maybe an hour or two to complete both(annealed these). I have a new way to do more than one at a time and make them identical. Like I have said it is a learning experience. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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85gr
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Fayetteville, GA
Posts: 84
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Quote:
I'm all ears on an easier way. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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130gr
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 514
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I am not sure how you will do that without having a metal lathe? The only easy thing I can think of, would be to used a SI broadhead adapter that would be used to mount a traditional broadhead to an arrow with a SI adapter. If you got the long version and slotted it it might work without needing a lathe. The tapered portion of the one I have pictured is a little less than an inch long.
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#5 (permalink) |
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85gr
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Fayetteville, GA
Posts: 84
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That's what I was thinking. Something like that adapter might just fit the bill. I use the poor mans lathe right now. I chuck the aluminum rod stock into a drill and clamp the drill into my vice and work it with files, sandpaper, and steel wool for a final touch. I use a caliper to keep the lengths and diameters the same but a lot of work. Then I use a die to thread it and a tap if you want replacement blades. It works but creating multiple identical ferrules is a chore.
Last edited by PassingThrough; 01-05-2012 at 01:46 PM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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85gr
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Fayetteville, GA
Posts: 84
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Fabbri these have not been hardened yet. It is either L6 or L7 circular saw blade steel I believe. I know it is hard as nails untouched. However, like I mentioned I did anneal these and I have not hardened them yet. I want to drill the mounting screws for the ferrule and the blade first.
I did a little research I figured the oven set for 500F from cold oven for one hour gives me a purple blade. A shade tree knife maker mentioned in a forum with this method it should get to around 55RC. How reliable that is I don't know but comes close to other things I have found on knife blade forums. If it is a little less it won't kill me. If there are better ways please let me know or a better reference. I have done a little trial and error. A blade size piece will barely bend without breaking with my body weight (230lbs) trying to bend it in a vice. I have shot hardened blades through 1X4s with a single bevel and splits them with no damage to the blade. Barely even dulled. The advantage is if you look at a SF 150gr the ferrule extends to almost the tip adding support and strength to the blade or to the ferrule however you look at it. |
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