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Thread: Homemade SI broadhead

  1. #1
    145gr Big Boar's Avatar
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    Default Homemade SI broadhead

    A couple of days ago I decided to try and make a 100 grain screw-in broadhead. Since I had some extra Savora ferrules laying around I thought I just modify one and slot it. I was shooting for 100 grains. For the blade I cut one out of a used band saw blade that is .034 inches thick. I have attached a picture of the raw blade and the completed head. I was astonished when the head weighed in at 99 grains.
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    145gr Big Boar's Avatar
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    For step two I thought I would have the ferrule flare so it would end up closer to the size of my 2514 aluminum arrow shafts. I also decided I would need to make some tooling to get the blades more consistent when cutting them out with a Dremel tool cutoff wheel. I also decided to turn out the ferrules from scratch on my lathe.

    Picture one is the completed blade. Picture two is the first step in turning the ferrule. Picture three is the first completed head and came in at 102 grains. I thought that was close enough, so I decided to make a couple more in case they flew good. The last picture shows the three completed heads and they weigh in at 102, 103, and 103. I guess that is consistent enough.

    If they fly good I may actually take them out hunting, since the deer season opens in six days. Would love to put it through a nice fat doe, but they are off the ticket again this year where I hunt. So maybe I will get lucky and have a big boy stand in front of me. (Correction: The DNR finally came out with the printed rule book and I can shoot an extra doe)

    The steel they use in those bandsaw blades really takes an edge and these are scary sharp.
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    Last edited by Big Boar; 09-08-2013 at 02:25 PM.

  3. #3
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    Nice work Big Boar. I have a blade here that I'm going to use for a few projects too. It is .062 thick. I like your design.
    APA Innovations Viper V7 65@29" Easton FMJ 300
    Grim Reaper 1 3/4" 100 grain

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    Big Boar those look great man. Let us know how they fly. I am thinking of making a few for my recurve this year. I dropped the wheels and going old school. It will allow my designs to have a lot more weight.

    I'm shooting 250gr heads so I think I will have plenty of room for metal. When I made the smaller heads shaving weight was a big deal. I like the profile of your design. What are the specs on length and width?

    Great work my man!

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    145gr Big Boar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PassingThrough View Post
    Big Boar those look great man. Let us know how they fly. I am thinking of making a few for my recurve this year. I dropped the wheels and going old school. It will allow my designs to have a lot more weight.

    I'm shooting 250gr heads so I think I will have plenty of room for metal. When I made the smaller heads shaving weight was a big deal. I like the profile of your design. What are the specs on length and width?

    Great work my man!
    The blade is 1 inch wide and about 1.5 inches long. It has about a 2.38" Radius for the blade edge. The weight was 63 grains before sharpening and 56 grains after. The ferrule is 6061 aluminum rod that started out as 3/8 diameter. It is 1.30" long from the arrow and 1.83" long overall. It weighs about 47 grains after slotting.

    I tried shooting all four this last week and at 20 yards they all hit within a 3 inch circle. To get a heavier head you would need to change the ferrule material (maybe brass) or make it longer or thicken the blade and/or make it longer. I just calculated that if the ferrule was changed from aluminum to brass the weight would change from 47 grains to 147 grains. This means that with the same blade the weight would go from about a 100 grain head to a 200 grain head.

    I am very happy on how these turned out. The only down side was I spent about four days to make these but much of that was making the tooling I needed to make them consistent.
    Last edited by Big Boar; 09-16-2013 at 06:48 PM.

  6. #6
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    There is no downside when your making your own heads, it's all fun.
    APA Innovations Viper V7 65@29" Easton FMJ 300
    Grim Reaper 1 3/4" 100 grain

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    Those heads look great. May I ask, what do you use to slot the ferrule? I need an accurate way of doing it to fit my blades to the aluminium field points.
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    Easton Axis Realtree 300 arrows 510gr @ 268ft/s

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    Quote Originally Posted by Philip_R View Post
    Those heads look great. May I ask, what do you use to slot the ferrule? I need an accurate way of doing it to fit my blades to the aluminium field points.
    I slotted these like I did in my previous thread

    New Broadhead from Old Parts

    The hardest part of this is picking the right thickness saw blade and making sure it is accurately centered on the shaft. The saw set I got was from Harbor Freight.

    In the past, I have slotted ferrules with a hack saw by making a tool that holds the ferrule and guides the saw blade. There was another thread somewhere that showed this tool, but I can't find it right now. I will see if I can find my tool and show some pictures.

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    Here is the link of a post by my friend Rancid Crabtree. He shows how to slot a ferrule using a tool that I made and let him use. I do not want to redo it because he did such a good job at showing the process of making a Traditional Broadhead. This is a simple tool to make and does a very repeatable job. The hacksaw blade is guided by the sides of the steel plates and the depth is controlled by the placement of the first broken saw blade because it stops cutting the ferrule any deeper.

    BowhuntingTalk.com ? View topic - New broadhead

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    Thanks Big Boar, much appreciated.
    Bear Assualt 28.5" DL
    Easton Axis Realtree 300 arrows 510gr @ 268ft/s

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    What did you do to make the blades themselves consistent? That's been my biggest challenge.

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    Quote Originally Posted by handirifle View Post
    What did you do to make the blades themselves consistent? That's been my biggest challenge.
    The first thing I did was to make a tool so I could cut the curved edge of the blade and make it consistent. I had a Dremel type tool made by Tool Shop and sold by Menards. It comes with a flexible shaft attachment. I made a holder for this, made from a piece of water pipe. I tapped the bottom of the pipe every half inch and attached a swivel in the first hole. I then mounted it all to a bracket. This made it very easy to cut the two curved edges. If I would move the swivel back to one of the other taps it would make a larger radius and a longer blade.

    If I was going to make lots of blades, I would put in more time to make even better tooling.

    I then scanned in the first blade I made and made multiple copies of it as shown in the third picture. I then cut out one of these and taped it to the blade, matching the curved edges. I then cut the back edges and ground them down to the photo edge using a belt sander. I then rough ground the cutting edges on the belt sander and finished sharpening them with a Lansky sharpener. The three I made came out within a grain or two for all three.

    Hope that helps a little.
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    It took me some studying and thinking but I finally got how it works. Excellent pictures and write up. One more question, how did you attach the blades to the ferrule?

  14. #14
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    The blade is a tight fit in the slot and the notch at the bottom of the blade is centered in a similar protrusion in the slot. So all I did was apply a little epoxy and assemble it.

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    Rancid Crabtree.......love it! Pat McManus was the best!
    Dirt Nap Gear - DRT Broadheads available in Single and Double Bevel
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