raghorn

The broadhead does not need to be red hot! Just hot enough to melt the hot melt glue, twist the head to even out the glue, and align to where you want it . Set the point against the side of your work bench and grab the shaft and push, you want the head to seat. Hold a bit until the head cools or apply a damp rag to the head to cool. If the head is not seated firmly , on impact the shaft has room to move forward shearing the glue joint, and possibly splitting the ferrule or resulting in energy loss which results in lost penetration. Blades do not need to be aligned with the fletch unless you prefer that for sight picture or aesthetics. warm the head very slightly after sharpening and wipe a thin coat of petroleum jelly on the blades/edges, then wipe off excess with a rag. This can keep an edge sharp for years. Too much jelly will attract debris.

__________________
Colorado Bowhunters Assc >>>-----> American Broadhead Collectors Club
Colorado Traditional Archers Society >>>-----> Ron Brunges

Stumpkiller

I agree with Ron - do not try to bareshaft a broadhead.

I like to have mine, single blades, aligned with the grain. That is perpendicular to the string. The thought behind this is the paradox of the shaft is in the same plane as the blade so it is least likely to bite into the wind as the head whips side-to-side. It is also just a way to be consistant - and accuracy comes from consistancy.

The only other tuning I do is spin testing the arrow to make sure the head is aligned properly. I shoot 125 or 130 grain and do not tune by adding head weight. So, I make up my arrows to my draw plus 3/4" for clearance and tune the bow with brace height and side-pad thickness on the riser.

For attaching the head I use a heat-gun held in a vice and add the Ferr-L-Tite to the shaft taper and then set the head, heat and align with a pair of parallel jaw pliers. No flame, no burn.