Booner

Any of you Traditional guys want to enlighten me on how to install and tune a glue on head. I know very little about the traditional side...but I want to get involved.

varmint101

For me I just have to get them to spin which means heating it up and moving it around until it does. If you're using wood it all starts with a good taper, then heat up the glue, put some around the taper. Heat up the head some and put it on and spin until it works.

Briarsdad

I found when I was shooting traditional the first thing is make sure you have the right weight head for your arrow. Make sure your broadhead is the same weight as the head you tuned your arrows with. I always bare shaft tuned mine to get the right spine by adding weight to the front or rear if needed. After that go with what Varmint said heat and spin until you get them right.

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Red Feather Archery
Black Widow PLX Osage,Diamondback Archery Venom Longbow

Booner

Explain how you bare shaft to get the right spine. This is all so cool to me!!

Briarsdad

You start with a shaft with a point and nock only no fletchings. Stand about 10 to 15 yards from the target and shoot. Then you start adjusting, if your arrow hits with the nock to the right your over spined if it hits left you are under spined. You can either add weight to the front of the shaft if you are over spined or add weight to the back if you are under spined. Or if you are way out of whack change shafts to a stiffer shaft or vise versa. I found that the Gold Tip traditional arrows were easy to tune because of the brass weight system you can add to the insert or the nock bushing to adjust your spine. It is just a lot of tinkering I found that slightly over spined arrows(hitting a little nock right) flew better for me than an under spined shafts.

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Red Feather Archery
Black Widow PLX Osage,Diamondback Archery Venom Longbow

Booner

How do you suggest a hunter add weight to the front and rear of any other arrow.....carbon or aluminum. What increments do you use when adding weight.

Briarsdad

With the carbons you can add 5 or 10 gr at a time with the weight system gold tip uses.There are also weight tubes that go in the shaft or I think most of the carbons you can add the weights to the inserts or use nock bushings. I'm not real familiar with tuning other carbons.I only used the Gold Tip Traditional because they had all the weights and bushings that made them easy to tune, plus they looked cool like a wood shaft. On the aluminum shafts they make more spine choices like 2213 or 2219, you have the option of spining up or down to fit your bow so you don't have to worry about adding alot of weight to the shaft to get it spined right. My bow liked 2216's the best with a 150 gr head. I only dabbled in traditional gear for a few years. I know there are some real traditional shooters that have way more knowledge than me on this. If any of you guys have a better method I would love to learn about it.

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Red Feather Archery
Black Widow PLX Osage,Diamondback Archery Venom Longbow

raghorn

Don't bare shaft with a broadhead!!!

Briarsdad"s instructions are for a right hand shooter - opposite for LH.

Big Boar

To Raghorn. I like the broadhead in your Avatar. Do you know I have a Good Head just like it I got in 1998. I heard rumors that the guy who made it was ruggedly handsome.

Booner

Ok....a little private talk here.....fill us in!!! who made the head? hahahaha

Big Boar

Okay I guess it isn't fair if you are not in on it. Both Raghorn and I only recently joined this forum. I knew who it was right away by his handle and by the head he has displayed on his avatar. He is the manufacturer of that head and made it for the ABCC annual meeting in 1998. It was given out to every member who attended that years annual meeting. There was lots of discussion about what a GOOD HEAD was at that time within the club. So this head was listed as a Good Head and as you can see by its unique vents it is truely one almost everyone would like in their broadhead collection. It was only after this post by me and a couple more clues that he figured out who I was.
Sorry if I sidestepped the original thread with my last post.

Protec

If your shooting aluminum bare shafting is the best.

If your shooting wood you go by spine in relation to your poundage.

Once you pick your arrows I hot melt the blade to line up with the cock feather. Not a real science but personal preference.

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Shadowstalker

As a side point. If the arrow sticks into the target at an angle up or down. You need to adjust your knocking point. Make sure it is the arrow doing it an not the material in your target though.

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Sticks of choice. Centaur longbows and Cowiche longbows. Current broadheads, Centaur BGH and Ribtek 125s.

Bob Gulliksen

Big Boar
If you think the guy who made that head is handsome I think you have been drinking your own bath water.

SteveMcD

I agree with Varmint. One of the most crritical parts of arrow tuning is insuring ou have a perfect taper both the Point and the Nock ends. As long as the spine is right, it's all about the weight then.

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I often go hunting & fishing by myself, but I am never alone. God & Dad are always with me. Steve