New to Trad archery -

Dsotm223 · 08-23-2011, 04:39 PM

Alright guys I'm going to be a newbie for next season. I will be trying to keep it on the cheap side for now. I would like to know good bow and arrow brands to look at. Some tips and tricks to save money, and some tips and tricks on traditional archery in general. I know practice is an absolute must, after that I'm not sure where to start.

Night Wing · 08-24-2011, 05:22 AM

Probably the best inexpensive bow out there is a take down Samick Sage recurve which costs around $130. Good starter bow for deer and hogs.

Buy Sage No Tools Take-Down Recurve Bow

Arrows choice is a tough one. Arrows come in wood, carbon and aluminum. Aluminum is better for a new person starting out shooting a trad bow because they're easy to tune. When it comes to aluminum arrows, Easton is the maker of aluminum shafts and arrows. Easton makes aluminum arrow material for both target and hunting.

Easton Archery | Home

Aluminum comes in different grades, prices and sizes.

One important thing regarding a trad bow. There is no letoff like there is with a compound bow. Don't get over bowed poundage wise. Also, have someone measure your draw length. The poundage for production made trad bows is measured at 28". Every inch past 28", the bow will add between 2#-3# of weight. So if a bow is 40# @ 28", if you have a 29" draw length, when your reach your anchor point you'll be holding anywhere between 42#-43#.

Red Feather Archery · 08-24-2011, 09:10 AM

Lots of good advice there from Night Wing. Another option with regards to bows is to look around for a good used one. I'm shooting a #45 pound Super Kodiak this year that I got for a really good price and like it a lot.

Aluminum is a great way to get into traditional shooting. I have some Legacy shafts that have a little bit of the "wood" look. I really like making and shooting wood arrows, but if you go that route starting out you'll need to make very sure that you are shooting well matched and crafted arrows. I've met a number of people new to traditional that have become extremely frustrated by not being able to shoot accurately and have given it up. Looking at their gear revealed mismatched wooden arrows incorrectly spined and poorly built. Nearly impossible to learn to shoot accurately with them.

Going aluminum up front will make sure that you are shooting well matched arrows and take one variable out of the equation.

Dsotm223 · 08-24-2011, 12:08 PM

[/QUOTE]
One important thing regarding a trad bow. There is no letoff like there is with a compound bow. Don't get over bowed poundage wise. Also, have someone measure your draw length. The poundage for production made trad bows is measured at 28". Every inch past 28", the bow will add between 2#-3# of weight. So if a bow is 40# @ 28", if you have a 29" draw length, when your reach your anchor point you'll be holding anywhere between 42#-43#.[/QUOTE]

So does that mean every inch under 28 I lose 2 or 3 lbs also? I have a 27.5 inch draw. Also Ive noticed a lot of trad guys use heaver broadheads. Why is this?

Thanks for the help guys.

Red Feather Archery · 08-24-2011, 02:55 PM

Yes, you will lose 2-3#'s per inch under 28 that you draw. Make sure of your actual draw length while shooting your trad bow is 27.5". The easiest way to check your actual shooting draw length is to mark an arrow with different colored markers at one inch intervals and video yourself shooting and see which line you get to during a shot. A lot of people draw longer when they are not shooting an arrow than they do when they are actually shooting. Knowing your real shooting draw length is very important for getting your arrows to spine correctly.

A lot of traditionalist shoot heavier broadheads for the benefit of extra penetration. Dr. Ed Ashby has been doing broadhead studies for more than 25 years and has written extensively about broadhead performance. His recommendation of heavy broadheads and arrows with high FOC have been very influential in the traditional circles.

Dsotm223 · 08-24-2011, 05:02 PM

So generally speaking a trad guy will be shooting a much heavier arrow than a mech guy. Also are there certain brands or types of broadheads you trad shoters have noticed don't perform as well or are a no no for beginners.

Night Wing · 08-25-2011, 05:47 AM

If you're by yourself and don't have a video camera to measure your draw length, there is an easy way.

Get a clothes pin. Then find a very long arrow shaft, say 32" in length without a point. Then attach the clothes pin to the arrow shaft about 9" behind the front of the arrow shaft and make sure it hangs vertically. Then draw the arrow to your anchor point which for a lot of people is the corner of their mouth. As you draw the arrow, when the clothes pin hits the front of the bow's shelf, it will start to slide forward toward the tip of the arrow shaft. When you reach your anchor point, the clothes pin will stop. Don't shoot the arrow. Just let down slowly. Then measure the distance from the valley of the arrow nock where it seats against the bowstring to the beginning of the clothes pin. Write this distance down. Repeat the process about 6 times and each time measure the distance. This should give you a consensus what your draw length is in inches.

I have a 30" draw length, due to long arms and I like to shoot 32" BOP (back of point) aluminum arrows.

As for broadheads, depending on bow poundage and overall arrow length, you can shoot 2, 3 and 4 blade broadheads. I have light and heavy arrow setups since my bow's shelf is cut 3/16" past center so it will shoot a variety of differently spined aluminum arrow sizes simply by changing point weight and adjusting (lowering or raising) the brace height. This means I can shoot a light 2212 aluminum arrow with a 75 grain broadhead weighing a total of 421 grains or a heavy 2117 aluminum arrow with a 135 grain broadhead weighing a total of 572 grains..

Again, depending on poundage and the overall length of your arrow, a very good 2 blade broadhead is a glue on 130, 145 and 160 grain STOS broadheads. Glue the glue on broadhead to a screw in long broadhead adapter, spin test to make sure there is no wobble and if not, your arrow tipped with a broadhead is ready to go hunting.

The link below is a good place to buy broadheads. I've done business with Braveheart Archery many times.

http://www.braveheartarchery.us/

Hope this helps to get you started.

Dsotm223 · 08-25-2011, 01:11 PM

Yes it does help a lot. Thanks to all. Ive been looking at magnus 2 blade buzzcut 150s. Any thoughts on that broadhead?

08-23-2011, 04:39 PM	#1 (permalink)
Dsotm223 125gr Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Illinois Posts: 431	New to Trad archery Alright guys I'm going to be a newbie for next season. I will be trying to keep it on the cheap side for now. I would like to know good bow and arrow brands to look at. Some tips and tricks to save money, and some tips and tricks on traditional archery in general. I know practice is an absolute must, after that I'm not sure where to start. __________________ Bear Buckmaster BTR 71lbs @ 28" 308 fps Gold Tip Kinetics 468 gr. 98.61 ft/lbs

08-24-2011, 12:08 PM	#4 (permalink)
Dsotm223 125gr Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Illinois Posts: 431	[/QUOTE] One important thing regarding a trad bow. There is no letoff like there is with a compound bow. Don't get over bowed poundage wise. Also, have someone measure your draw length. The poundage for production made trad bows is measured at 28". Every inch past 28", the bow will add between 2#-3# of weight. So if a bow is 40# @ 28", if you have a 29" draw length, when your reach your anchor point you'll be holding anywhere between 42#-43#.[/QUOTE] So does that mean every inch under 28 I lose 2 or 3 lbs also? I have a 27.5 inch draw. Also Ive noticed a lot of trad guys use heaver broadheads. Why is this? Thanks for the help guys. __________________ Bear Buckmaster BTR 71lbs @ 28" 308 fps Gold Tip Kinetics 468 gr. 98.61 ft/lbs

08-24-2011, 05:02 PM	#6 (permalink)
Dsotm223 125gr Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Illinois Posts: 431	So generally speaking a trad guy will be shooting a much heavier arrow than a mech guy. Also are there certain brands or types of broadheads you trad shoters have noticed don't perform as well or are a no no for beginners. __________________ Bear Buckmaster BTR 71lbs @ 28" 308 fps Gold Tip Kinetics 468 gr. 98.61 ft/lbs

08-25-2011, 01:11 PM	#8 (permalink)
Dsotm223 125gr Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Illinois Posts: 431	Yes it does help a lot. Thanks to all. Ive been looking at magnus 2 blade buzzcut 150s. Any thoughts on that broadhead? __________________ Bear Buckmaster BTR 71lbs @ 28" 308 fps Gold Tip Kinetics 468 gr. 98.61 ft/lbs

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

08-24-2011, 05:22 AM	#2 (permalink)
Night Wing 75gr Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Texas Posts: 25	Probably the best inexpensive bow out there is a take down Samick Sage recurve which costs around $130. Good starter bow for deer and hogs. Buy Sage No Tools Take-Down Recurve Bow Arrows choice is a tough one. Arrows come in wood, carbon and aluminum. Aluminum is better for a new person starting out shooting a trad bow because they're easy to tune. When it comes to aluminum arrows, Easton is the maker of aluminum shafts and arrows. Easton makes aluminum arrow material for both target and hunting. Easton Archery \| Home Aluminum comes in different grades, prices and sizes. One important thing regarding a trad bow. There is no letoff like there is with a compound bow. Don't get over bowed poundage wise. Also, have someone measure your draw length. The poundage for production made trad bows is measured at 28". Every inch past 28", the bow will add between 2#-3# of weight. So if a bow is 40# @ 28", if you have a 29" draw length, when your reach your anchor point you'll be holding anywhere between 42#-43#.

08-24-2011, 09:10 AM	#3 (permalink)
Red Feather Archery Broadhead Maker Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 757	Lots of good advice there from Night Wing. Another option with regards to bows is to look around for a good used one. I'm shooting a #45 pound Super Kodiak this year that I got for a really good price and like it a lot. Aluminum is a great way to get into traditional shooting. I have some Legacy shafts that have a little bit of the "wood" look. I really like making and shooting wood arrows, but if you go that route starting out you'll need to make very sure that you are shooting well matched and crafted arrows. I've met a number of people new to traditional that have become extremely frustrated by not being able to shoot accurately and have given it up. Looking at their gear revealed mismatched wooden arrows incorrectly spined and poorly built. Nearly impossible to learn to shoot accurately with them. Going aluminum up front will make sure that you are shooting well matched arrows and take one variable out of the equation.

08-24-2011, 02:55 PM	#5 (permalink)
Red Feather Archery Broadhead Maker Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 757	Yes, you will lose 2-3#'s per inch under 28 that you draw. Make sure of your actual draw length while shooting your trad bow is 27.5". The easiest way to check your actual shooting draw length is to mark an arrow with different colored markers at one inch intervals and video yourself shooting and see which line you get to during a shot. A lot of people draw longer when they are not shooting an arrow than they do when they are actually shooting. Knowing your real shooting draw length is very important for getting your arrows to spine correctly. A lot of traditionalist shoot heavier broadheads for the benefit of extra penetration. Dr. Ed Ashby has been doing broadhead studies for more than 25 years and has written extensively about broadhead performance. His recommendation of heavy broadheads and arrows with high FOC have been very influential in the traditional circles.

08-25-2011, 05:47 AM	#7 (permalink)
Night Wing 75gr Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Texas Posts: 25	If you're by yourself and don't have a video camera to measure your draw length, there is an easy way. Get a clothes pin. Then find a very long arrow shaft, say 32" in length without a point. Then attach the clothes pin to the arrow shaft about 9" behind the front of the arrow shaft and make sure it hangs vertically. Then draw the arrow to your anchor point which for a lot of people is the corner of their mouth. As you draw the arrow, when the clothes pin hits the front of the bow's shelf, it will start to slide forward toward the tip of the arrow shaft. When you reach your anchor point, the clothes pin will stop. Don't shoot the arrow. Just let down slowly. Then measure the distance from the valley of the arrow nock where it seats against the bowstring to the beginning of the clothes pin. Write this distance down. Repeat the process about 6 times and each time measure the distance. This should give you a consensus what your draw length is in inches. I have a 30" draw length, due to long arms and I like to shoot 32" BOP (back of point) aluminum arrows. As for broadheads, depending on bow poundage and overall arrow length, you can shoot 2, 3 and 4 blade broadheads. I have light and heavy arrow setups since my bow's shelf is cut 3/16" past center so it will shoot a variety of differently spined aluminum arrow sizes simply by changing point weight and adjusting (lowering or raising) the brace height. This means I can shoot a light 2212 aluminum arrow with a 75 grain broadhead weighing a total of 421 grains or a heavy 2117 aluminum arrow with a 135 grain broadhead weighing a total of 572 grains.. Again, depending on poundage and the overall length of your arrow, a very good 2 blade broadhead is a glue on 130, 145 and 160 grain STOS broadheads. Glue the glue on broadhead to a screw in long broadhead adapter, spin test to make sure there is no wobble and if not, your arrow tipped with a broadhead is ready to go hunting. The link below is a good place to buy broadheads. I've done business with Braveheart Archery many times. http://www.braveheartarchery.us/ Hope this helps to get you started.